If you think your favorite World Cup athletes are talented check out this guy.

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Khao San Road in Bangkok, Thailand is the traveler’s gateway to SE Asia. It feels like an adult circus atmosphere, a mixture of Thai food, cheap hotels, tacky clubs, partying, street performers, loud music, and vendors hawking anything they think tourists will buy.

This guy obviously fits into the “street performer” category. Today is the final of the World Cup 2010, and this is my contribution to the game.

Seoul, South Korea. Who knows what this bug is?

Wild camels somewhere in Mongolia.

San Francisco, CA. Some guy paired these two creatures to generate tips.

Okinawa, Japan. At a cafe, this cat jumped right onto the chair next to my table and started eating from a bowl. Obviously, he had done this before.

Cheyenne, Wyoming, June 2009. Check out how much gas prices have risen in one year.

Rishikesh, India. Cows in the street are a common sight.

Varanasi, India. Steps leading down to the river are called ghats. Varanasi has dozens of these narrow ghats, most of which have animals cohabiting with humans.

Rishikesh, India. Cows eat directly from dumpsters and ditches in India. This pile of trash was on fire, but that didn't bother the cows until licking a hot piece of coal. Check out the "American Spoken English Institute" sign painted on the brick wall behind the cows.

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka. A large calf feeds from its mother in the middle of a dirt road.

McLeod Ganj, India. This picture was taken literally within a couple hundred meters of where the Dalai Lama lives.

More cows from India. Varanasi. I could never figure out how Hindus see the cow as such a holy and motherly creature, letting them cohabitate freely, yet will sometimes tie them up and take ownership.

Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka. This beautiful beach town was massacred by the tsunami a few years back. While walking around, I was surprised by this huge water monitor. It must have been over 6 feet long. You can see its tongue flicking.

Varanasi, India. Most of the people in the picture traveled to this location for funerals or religious travel. They will sleep in the open air, sharing space with the cows. During my time in India, I came to really love the cows, which were so docile, tame, friendly, and seemingly content.

Kota Kinabalau, Borneo, Malaysia. These tiny turtles were being sold for about $2.75 each. One street market there had vendors selling all kinds of animals illegally. Most had signs saying "No Pictures."

Ko Chang, Thailand. People visiting Thailand who want a wonderful beach experience away from the crazy tourist areas (like Phuket) should check out Ko Chang.

Rishikesh, India. One of my favorite pictures! This road was really smooth compared to most, which made it all the better for napping.

Colombo, Sri lanka.

Of all the pictures I took in the last year, this is my favorite! My #1 of about 5,000 pictures. To me it sweepingly symbolizes modern India. Really, I should say that it reflects my perceptions of the country. In the picture, I see an animal that is respected enough by the people to be painted with a purple religious bindi (forehead dot), yet has two legs tied together and is standing idly in the scorching sun, matted in its own excrement. I see India as this incredibly religious country, so religious in my opinion that traditions and beliefs overpower common sense to help oneself. The donkey's bindi represents the strong spiritual nature of India. The tied legs represent the self-sabotage or self-inflicted suffering that so many seek or feel they deserve. The dirty hair represents the inability or apathy to help oneself.

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka.

Rishikesh, India.

Ko Chang, Thailand. At sunset, monkeys sit on the rooftops near the main street, catching bananas that people toss in the air. This mama monkey is full of bananas and enjoying a little relaxation with baby.

Manali, India.

Hilo, Hawaii.

Agra, India.

Hong Kong.

Mongolia.

Pinnawela, Sri Lanka. Every afternoon, elephants rescued at this orphanage stroll to the water for a drink. Elephants housed here include abandoned babies, blind adults, and elephants with missing legs from land mines.

Okinawa.

Manali, India.

Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka.

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka. This lizard was so well camouflaged, I was lucky to see it. Some heavy googling was necessary to figure out what this thing was called. It looks like a cross of snake head, frog legs, and lizard scales and tail.

Sri Lanka. Imagine seeing this on your bathroom sink. Now imagine it crawling into the hollow plastic handle of your disposable razor.

In the interest of full disclosure, I did NOT vote for Obama. His experience consisted of some teaching, some lawyering, some community service, some time in the Illinois Senate, and a couple years in the US Senate. That resume, while impressive, is definitely not enough to qualify, in my opinion, as leader of the United States of America, and therefore of the world.

Many opponents of President Obama say that he is giving away American power, reducing our wealth, our military strength, our respect. They ask “what about us, Mr. President? You are the American President, not the world president.” The only problem with that thinking is that the US President actually controls, through various mechanisms, much of the world. He is the world’s president. As Americans, we have a responsibility to educate ourselves on the impact our country has on the rest of the world. While President Obama leads the world’s sole superpower and greatly influences nearly every country, it is only us, Americans, who can elect him. The rest of the world has no say in the matter of electing this global leader, which is why it’s so important for Americans to learn about our country’s influence.

What should qualify a person to be President? When I look deeper into the decisions and character of recent presidents, I can’t say I’m too thrilled with any of them. The United States has grown into the strongest country in the world, a hegemony in fact. That’s great for anyone who is a US citizen, but what about the rest of the world, most of which is controlled directly or indirectly by US instruments of power? This is a question I think very few Americans ever ask themselves. We are fine living in the little bubbles we call our lives, residing in McMansions, driving SUVs, looking for better, higher paying jobs, isolated from the problems of the rest of the world, using a quarter of the world’s gasoline, secured by nearly half of the world’s total defense spending. Meanwhile, a good chunk of the world lives in poverty making American lives better through cheap labor. Sadly, Americans rarely get the chance to see how the rest of the planet lives.

I’ve had that chance in the past year. I feel confident declaring that the rest of the world loves President Obama. A lot. It is not at all uncommon for me to hear an “OBAMA!” or “America, best country!” response immediately after I answer a question of my nationality. People smile when they say it. They look at me like I’m the President’s direct representative (which, I guess I am, on some level). Yesterday, I was a paid extra on a Bollywood blockbuster movie set. We’re talking Mumbai, India. The coordinator, when I told him I was from “America,” said the anticipated response: “Obama!” He gave a big smile and stared in pride. The majority of the extras were Europeans, and I was the only American (it continually disappoints me how few Americans travel, but that’s for another post).

Part of me wants to turn away when I get this kind of oversized attention in a group of Westerners. Most eyes turn to me and I can feel the scrutiny of locals and travelers alike (everyone has strong opinions of the US, one way or another). Another part of me obviously enjoys being singled out and is immensely proud to be a citizen of the “best country.”

Interestingly, most foreigners who express their liking of Obama haven’t the slightest clue of his political interests. I sometimes find myself trying to educate them, that “half of Americans like, half of Americans no like” the President, but they don’t care much for the particulars. All they know is that President Obama is good. For them, he represents hope, Democracy, and caring for people. I often try to understand what exactly they like so much about him, but most can’t articulate the reasons. It’s more of a positive feeling. From some who are able to describe their thoughts a bit better, I’ve been told they like his name, that it isn’t a typical American name. They know he has roots in Africa and Indonesia. They know his skin color is new for a US President. They know that this guy with the funny name and dark skin is the most powerful person on the planet. And they find hope for themselves and the world in this.

The next presidential election is in 2012. I didn’t vote for Obama last time, and I have no idea who will get my next vote. After traveling so much, though, I know that President Obama is the right man for the job of making the world better right now. While traveling, he makes me very proud to be an American and claim him as my President.

1.Ignore them! At first blush, this seems incredibly simplistic, and that’s exactly why it works. Imagine if you try to initiate an interaction with someone and that person completely ignores you. After a few seconds, you’d probably turn away out of social embarrassment.

2. Say “HELLO!” then ignore them. For some of us, completely ignoring anyone, even a pushy tout, can seem rude. I had to read in a guidebook sometime that it’s okay to ignore touts, that it isn’t considered rude, at least not any ruder than them annoyingly trying to get your business. At other times, there are social settings where it would be rude to ignore a tout. For instance, it would be rude to not return a greeting in the morning, leaving the hotel, and seeing a single tuk-tuk driver who smiles and says “Good morning!” Regardless of your situation or personal need to acknowledge individuals no matter what the circumstances, a solid greeting while continuing to walk away works.

2a. As a side experiment this past month, I’ve been very successful in greeting touts using my sunniest, loudest voice. If they wave me over to them, greet me, or in any way try to start an interaction, I simply say “HELLO!” or “GOOD MORNING!” while continuing ahead, and nearly every time that ends the interaction. I’m not sure why this works, but I think it must have to do with establishing dominance. It catches them off guard, as they are used to controlling interactions with potential customers, and they are stunned into inaction, not knowing what to say next. I continue on my merry way, happily knowing that I am the friendliest, most outgoing, best tout-evading tourist in town.

3. Say “No thanks” then ignore. If it feels awkward to ignore a tout and you’ve already greeted him, yet he persists in getting your business, the next best step is to tell him you’re not interested. “No thanks!” is about as clear as it gets. Ignoring a tout should then be much easier because you’ve established your intentions, and should feel secure knowing that any further pursuit by the tout really is rude.

4. Keep walking. This technique compliments all the rest, but I itemize it here for emphasis. I’ve had touts “chase” me for over a block, but eventually they give up when they realize how far away they’ve moved. You can keep talking to them or ignoring them if they follow along. The idea, though, is to keep moving on with your day…Don’t let a tout eat up your time and energy by stopping to have a 10 minute chat about why you can’t buy his t-shirts, or why you aren’t interested in her massage. If you think about it, when you engage a tout, knowing full well you won’t be buying, you are being rude for wasting his time!

5. Keep talking. If you enter an interaction with a tout knowing that you won’t buy anything and making it clear to him from the get go that you won’t buy anything, then it clears the air for some enlightening conversation. You might have fun asking about local sights and customs, or maybe timing the conversation to see how long you can keep the conversation going before he tries to get away! Most likely a tout will think you’re interested in buying something if you hang around and he’ll throw in a sales pitch from time to time. Repeat your initial stance that you have no desire to buy anything, then the air is cleared again for you to continue leading the conversation.

6. Never, ever let them touch you. If there’s one thing I won’t tolerate, it’s strangers, particularly touts, touching me to get or keep my attention. “DON’T TOUCH!” is a phrase I use when this happens (maybe once every few days). It is very effective, mostly because I abruptly recoil, take a somewhat aggressive stance and say it meanly. Every time, the interaction dies. Here’s my philosophy on this: Touch is a clear, if subconscious, way of establishing dominance and compliance over another person. If you immediately counter it, then you now have the upper hand and control the interaction. By re-engaging a tout after she grabs your arm or even taps your hand, you are being manipulated. It becomes more and more difficult to ignore or walk away from a tout from that point on. Additionally, most pick pocket techniques involve touching to misdirect—you’ll feel a pinch on the shoulder while the pickpocket’s other hand is stealthly grabbing your wallet. Bottom line: Never ever let a tout touch without giving him some social punishment.

Touts are people trying to earn a living, raising families, and doing what they know works best. The highest earning touts are probably the most aggressive, which is why they continue to be that way. I want you to take from this article, that you can use some simple social techniques to save yourself time and energy fending off the dozens and dozens of touts you’ll face daily in 3rd world countries. Don’t let yourself become completely numb to them as people, however, because you’ll deprive yourself of some very interesting stories!

Some of my best experiences have been because of touts. In Vietnam, I offered a woman (selling handicrafts) a ride to her home on my motorbike rental. She also happened to have a baby bundled to her and a 2-3 hour walk ahead. When I dropped her off she invited me for dinner with the whole family. It was delicious! In Sri Lanka this week, I was telling a tuk-tuk driver of the difficult I had in experiencing the food. To make a long story short, the next day he picked me up at my hotel and took me to his house where his wife had prepared a whole assortment of Sri Lankan dishes!

What techniques do you use for dealing with pushy touts or salesmen? Have you had any interesting experiences with touts, good or bad?

Travel warnings can greatly diminish tourism to a country. Less tourism means less foreign money flowing in. For countries that are poor or that rely heavily on tourism, a warning can be economically devastating. In this way, travel warnings and other state-issued information are huge tools of influence that don’t necessarily have much to do with actual travel.

Yesterday, I read an article discussing Sri Lanka’s tourism prospects. The author mentioned the need for Sri Lanka to lobby and reconcile with Western nations in order to be on more favorable terms, to do away with any travel warnings. In other words, travel warnings that are no longer applicable continue to exist only because of hard feelings over past issues unrelated to current travel. Many travel warnings exist out of extreme caution beyond what is necessary.

On your next big vacation or travels, give the warnings a good look for background information, but also take into account anecdotal evidence from travelers who are there right now, read articles or discussions about the current situation, and continue to research to draw your own conclusions. You might be denying yourself some amazing experiences by avoiding places with travel warnings. By doing so, you might also unwittingly be doing a government’s political punishment for something completely unrelated.

Motorcycles. 50 miles per gallon? 100 miles per gallon? Lots of miles per gallon. $1.50 to fill tank. Why do people think travel is expensive?

Everyone driving motorbikes. Men. Kids. Grandmas. Families. Yes, families. We’re talking four people on one bike. No problem. See it all the time. Little boy driving father in the back? Sure, why not. Girls in mini skirts or sarongs? Sit sideways on the seat behind the driver. Wait, is that safe? Sure, why not. Text message while driving? Eat? Drink? No problem. We’re still talking about motorcycles, right? No cup holder, requires both hands to stabilize? Yeah, for beginners, maybe.

Helmets? Who needs helmets. Oh…the police will give a ticket. The passengers don’t wear helmets? What’s up with that?
“Hey, this is not a helmet. It’s a plastic cap!”
“Is okay. No pro’lem!”
“But, it is a problem. There isn’t even a chin strap!”
“Is okay. No pro’lem! Police no bother.”
“Yeah, but if I get in an accident, I’ll die!”
“You no get accident!”

Road Rage? Haven’t seen outside of the US. Ever.

“Here keys.”
“Wait, don’t you guys check to see if I have license or insurance or know how to ride a motorbike at all?”
Confused look. “You no ride bike before?”
“Yes, I have, but I’m just asking if you check to make sure that people renting from you know how to ride, to be safe, to keep your bikes from accidents.”
Still confused. “If no can ride, no rent.”
“Wait. So you’re basically telling me that your government expects people to have common sense and doesn’t regulate all this stuff?”

Old scooters. Wrecked scooters. New scooters. Ok, not so many new scooters. Maybe one week, then they look like old scooters. Dings. Dents. Scratches. Scrapes.

Female motorcyclists. Elbows turned inward. Wrists bent. Strange what you notice after a while.
In Vietnam: “Why do all the women wear gloves?”
“For lady hand. Keep nice.”
“Ok, well why do they all wear cloth masks over their mouths, and not so many men do?”
“Clean air for lady. Men no need. Some yes. Some no.”

I leave store with helmet on, and keys in hand. Moto-taxi driver, brain on autopilot, says “You need taxi?”
“Um, I have a bike!”

Go! Keep moving! Traffic can’t stop!
On the sidewalk. In the opposite lane. In the dirt. Around a tree. Don’t stop. Whatever happens, don’t stop. Most efficient traffic on Earth. Unsafe, sure, but efficient. Ok, no problem.

BEEP! BEEP! BEEP!
Vietnam: Hundreds of beeps. Near. Far. Strong. Weak. Short. Long. Happy beeps. Like saying “Hello Friend, I’m over here!” Learn fast which beeps for you and which are not.
Thailand: Not as many beeps. “Get out of my way!” beeps.
Bali: Beeps after the fact, when no action is necessary. Useless beeps. Annoying and mean.

Reverse Hitchhiking. Actively seeking passengers. Especially ones that aren’t looking. Feels good. Like a good deed. H’Mong woman walking home, baby on her back, sack of handicrafts. Two hour walk. Me—driving around for fun. Makes sense. Adventurous. Reverse hitchhiking. Do it.

Accidents happen. It’s okay, no problem. Ride long enough, you’ll have scars. Seen girls with burn scars on calves from bikes falling on them, men with road rash scars. It’s okay, it heals same same. Once got passed by two men speeding past me on a dirt road. A couple miles later they were both laid out, bike on its side. One was unconscious, the other had blood all over his face. No problem. Department of State prohibits American employees from riding motorbikes in Thailand. Sissies.
“Um, sorry, but I crashed your brand new motorbike today, left a few scrapes. It wasn’t my fault.”
“Ok, no problem. You pay me 50 dollar.”
“But it wasn’t my fault. I took pictures of everything and got the guy’s license plate so we can call his insurance.”
“No have insurance. You pay 50 dollar. No problem.”
“But shouldn’t we call the police or something to get him to pay for the damage. That’s how we do it where I’m from”
“We no where you from. We Vietnam. No police.”
“Ok. Can I rent for a few more days.”
“Ok. No problem. 5 dollar per day.”
“Can you give me a discount or something? I just gave you 50 dollars. A couple more scratches and you can buy yourself a new bike.”
“50 dollar for accident. 5 dollar for rent. Different.”

Saigon, Vietnam traffic. Must be the busiest motorcycle traffic in the world. Smooth as silk. It’s a wave. Go with the flow. Ride the wave. Need to stop? The wave will go around. Trying to walk across the street? Just do it. The wave will flow around you. Whatever you do, don’t look back. And don’t make sudden movements. Flow. Like water.
Bali. Most disorderly traffic. No rules. Americans: stick to walking. Everything’s opposite. Like to hug the outside of the lane? Bad idea—entering traffic assumes that section is open and won’t look for you. Like the inside of the lane? Bad idea—opposing traffic likes that part of your lane, too! Where to go? Where there is no one else! Physics!

“Hey buddy, this motorbike has no mirrors?”
“Is ok. No problem. No need.”
“Um, these brakes really suck, too.”
“No drive fast.”
“Yeah, ok, but like I have to squeeze the brake lever the entire way to get it to slow. That’s not safe.”
“No. Is ok. I check. Yes. See, is okay. No problem.”

Lights out of alignment. Mirrors broken. Mirrors missing. Brakes worn. Tires balding. Blinkers not working. Horn broken. “Is ok. No use horn.”
Insurance. You don’t need no stinking insurance.
“Ok, I rent the bike. You said 4 dollars a day, or 6 dollars if I get insurance with it? How’s the insurance work?”
“If you damage, lose, or bike get stolen, you pay up to 500 dollar.”
“But this bike is a piece of crap. A new one costs 1000 dollars. This one is probably only worth $200!”

Parking attendants. Posers. Pretenders. Peddlers.
“Sir, you pay me 5000 dong for park.”
“For what? There’s no sign. Who are you? Why didn’t you charge those guys 5000.”
“Is ok. No worry about it.”

Police. Sometimes yes. Sometimes no.
“You no take much money.”
“What do you mean?”
“Cuz police. They stop you. You pay lots.”
“How much?”
“You pay 5 dollar. If have ATM card, maybe police make you pay lot at ATM.”
“How much do you pay?”
“One dollar.”
“That’s not fair.”
“One dollar much me. Not much you.”
“Ok, what might they stop me for?”
“If no helmet. Maybe they no like.”

Swedish guy. Owns hotel in Cambodia. He tells me Cambodian police get $40 per month—not enough to care for a family. They regularly patrol street corners to collect traffic fines, which they use to supplement income. Isn’t that corruption, stealing? No, not stealing if necessary to care for family, he says. Everyone knows. It’s okay, no problem. How can anyone argue with that?

Cops. Run! Avoid! Hide!
I see girl turn around and drive through oncoming traffic when she sees police flagging her down. First time I’ve seen someone run from police. Reminds me of high speed chase scenes in movies.
“Hey, what’s up with people running from police? In America, no one would ever do that! The police would chase them and catch them, and somebody would probably end up dead!”
“Is ok here. They no catch.”
“Why don’t they shoot their guns or call for help.”
“No. We not like that.”
“What are those club things they have? Do they shock people”
“Sometime maybe. Sometime maybe no.”

Motorcycles. 110cc, maybe 125 or 150 if you have the money. Carry bananas, pirated CDs for sale, books, coconuts, food carts, rice, chickens, pigs, dogs, alcohol coolers, objects stacked 10 feet high. Who needs to buy a store when one is ON the motorbike? Want to start a taxi service? Sure, no problem. Weld two other tires to the side, add some planks, and turn it into a 110cc car! Hold 8 people, no problem. Or add two wheels to the back and call it a tuk tuk. Holds 4-6 people, no problem!
“Hey I have an idea. It would be cool if you started a company painting these business bikes all fancy.”
“Already one. Name ‘Pimp My Tuk Tuk.’”

For 24 hours during Nyepi, the island is like a big ghost town, with even the airport closed. A few minutes before the start, and a few minutes near the end, I snuck outside to take in the silent black night, traffic-free roads, clear starry sky, and clean air—definitely a pleasant and unique memory I won’t soon forget. Without further ado, here are my reflections:

THE GRASS IS GREENER…

In Thailand’s convenience stores, you’d be challenged to find some regular skin cream. What you’ll find cartloads of, are containers of “whitening cream.” Yes, many Thai women want their beautifully toned skin to be light…In the US, you’ll find in every city many tanning salons. Many light skinned Americans, mostly women, are obsessed with having tanned skin, no matter what the longterm health ramifications.

I have an announcement for women all over the world: Be happy with your skin color! You will do more damage than good by trying to change it.

In Bali, my surf instructor’s “dream,” since he was a kid, has been to marry a Western woman and move to her country…Also in Bali, every Western restaurant (pizza places, hamburger shops, ice cream parlors) is owned by a Australian or European man married to a Balinese woman they preferred over their own countrywomen. Hmmm…

In Cambodia, Thailand, and most of SE Asia, many people seem totally content, but when I get into deeper conversations with them, they inevitably bring up money and how wonderful their lives would be, and all their problems solved, if only they had a little more money…In the US, I think of how wealthy people are, even the ones that think they are poor. I also consider how many Americans are depressed, on medications, overweight, etc. They also think that throwing money at their problems will solve them. Americans have the money to throw at problems, but it’s rare for the problems to permanently go away. When will we all learn that money isn’t the answer, and can do only so much for our emotional well being after basic needs are met?

Speaking financially, I continue to be perplexed at the complete ignorance, laziness, or dismissiveness of people around the world to plan for their futures. WHY DO PEOPLE NOT SAVE MONEY? In the US, our savings rate hovers around 0% as people keep buying on credit, taking out loans, and never living below their means. The Chinese seem to have it right. They save about 30% of their incomes. The rest of the world, like the US, also seems hell bent on spending every last penny earned. In Bali, one of the hostesses for a nightclub told me she’s a single mother and bragged about how she eats at fancy restaurants all the time. I asked why she doesn’t save that money. She said she has no savings, and asked why she would save? MAYBE FOR YOUR SON’S SECURITY! Unbelievable.

REEVALUATING OUR NOTIONS OF SAFETY

A few days ago I rode a motorcycle down to Kuta Beach, Bali. I wore swim trunks. No shoes, no helmet, no reflective vest. One arm was carrying the surfboard, while the other arm controlled the steering, accelerator, and braking. Somehow I lived.

I remember several years ago when a boss held a meeting and was very upset that he had seen a family driving down on the road and that a toddler in the car hadn’t been in a government-approved child’s seat. I have no kids, and wasn’t entirely sure why I had to listen to that message, but it struck me how passionate he was about those child safety seats.

Fast forward to 2010, and I see entire families of four (mom, dad, baby strapped to mom’s back, little kid) riding on one motorcycle. I see girls sending text messages while riding motorbikes, 10-year old kids driving around, even people smoking or eating while riding motorcycles. These are regular occurrences, not rare events. Right after finishing this post, I will walk down the street and see motorcyclists doing things that would shock the average American. They just aren’t safe! Right?

That’s the question I’ve been asking myself in my travels. I’ve driven a couple thousand miles on rented scooters in Vietnam, Thailand, Taiwan, and Bali. Seeing so many safety transgressions in so many countries among so many people has made me seriously reconsider just exactly what is “safe.” Granted, roads here are worse, vehicles have smaller engines, and traffic laws aren’t enforced (if there are laws). That creates a driving atmosphere in which people naturally drive quite a bit slower. I regularly find myself cruising through city streets at 10-20 mph, and pick it up to 30-45 mph when on the “highways.” Slower driving means much shorter stopping distances, and scrapes and bruises instead of deaths and paralyzations.

Are Americans too risk averse?

RELIGION

I’ve always been fascinated by religion. Having grown up in a highly religious community (of which I was not a member), raised by parents who had different religious backgrounds, but were non-practicing, gave me a close-up look with an outsider’s perspective. 

My travels have further cemented my longheld belief that religions and their associated beliefs have no supernatural foundations, that they consist of manmade creations for social organization, and are steeped in rituals, customs, and traditions that have little logical purpose. For whatever region, be it to organize society, fill time and bordeom, maybe to fill intellectual vacuum, someone started the various religions. Belief in a religion is not the same as belief in a God(s). I see religion like art:  some aspects are beautiful, and some aren’t. Like art, everyone interprets religious teachings, documents, and rituals differently.

Already evident to me, when traveling it becomes immensely more obvious that a person’s religion is nearly 100% based on parentage, and nearly 100% based on geography. Simply put, you are your parents’ religion. Your parents inherited the same religion from their parents. Most likely the majority of people in your nation, region of the world, and neighborhood share the exact same religion. If you had been born to pirates, you would believe in the Flying Spagehtti Monster.

What we have in the world are billions of people that are “religious,” practicing inherited beliefs, in nations and regions that are religiously segregated. Even in the US, perhaps the most diverse country on Earth, there are distinct pockets and regions with particular religious persuasions. Since such a very small percentage of people actually get to choose their religions, and since it is so obvious that one’s religion is a function of geography and parentage, why, then, are so many people all over the world so political, belligerent, and activist based on religious grounds? I see and hear more religious scripture cited in political discussions and am always baffled as to how such a stretch can be made.

Again, I’m a religious outsider who’s had some peeks at the inside, and I find it all fascinating, yet disturbing.

Just prior to Nyepi, here on Bali, there are many Hindu ceremonies. Additionally, there are always the ongoing customs, like respects for the dead. I was riding down the road last week and got stopped by a funeral procession of dozens of people walking down the middle of the road to a cremation ceremony. Every day, twice a day, people put rice on their foreheads, neck, and sometimes other spots for “good thoughts and feelings.” As the perspiration dries, the rice granules fall to the ground. Interesting.

In Mongolia, parents dress their baby boys as girls until two or three years old. The reason? To keep evil spirits from killing the baby boys. Males are seen as having higher value, so parents are very protective, dressing them as girls (we’re talking ponytails, hair clips, dresses, fingernail polish) until the toddlers are considered strong enough to live as boys. It sounds silly to us Westerners, but what about your own religious traditions…if an alien arrived on Earth and saw you practicing your religion, what would he think of it?

South Korea has some of the largest (and possibly the largest) Christian churches in the world. We’re talking a million members who take turns going to one building. It doesn’t take long to figure out that the majority of them are there for social purposes, and couldn’t tell you much at all about the bible. Is this bad? No, but it’s insightful to see what most religions are, that is, centuries-old social traditions sharing commonly-held, passed-down beliefs.

FAST FOOD WORLD

As a proud, yet somewhat cynical, American, one of my greatest fears is that in, say 200 years, civilization will look back on history and regard our most profound legacy (apart from the abstract ideas of: empowering and defending a big chunk of nations; apart from setting the bar for a free democracy and open society; apart from setting the bar for fighting from freedom of oppression; and apart from being that “shining light on a hill” to all people of all nations, showing that “all men are created equal”) as populating the planet with fast food and causing a worldwide obesity pandemic. This will be our brick-and-mortar legacy. There will be no pyramids for us, but fast food restaurants everywhere.

A couple weeks ago, I wrote about all the great things the US has given the world. Believe me, I have a laundry list of negatives, too, but one of the most negative is fast food. I’m not just talking about particular fast/junk food restaurants like McDonalds or Pizza Hut, but the concept of fatty, low-cost, chemically-enhanced, obesity-producing convenience foods. I see American fast food joints, and a lot of attempted ripoffs, all over Asia. It makes me a little sick thinking that my country is responsible for spreading such filth and knowing that the locals will continue to expand outward, literally.

One Balinese restaurant owner told me about his vacation to the US. He went to Los Angeles, New York, and even Park City, Utah. He loved the diversity of food in NYC, but  said everywhere else he visited offered only fast food restaurants. Being a healthy American takes tremdous work when our cheapest, fastest, tastiest choices are fast food.

THERE IS NO BEST POLITICAL SYSTEM

The more countries I visit and learn about, the more I believe that particular political systems work best with certain peoples and times. There is no best system, despite what we think, and try to force on others. This idea is not new, but a longheld anthropological teaching, where strong civilizations automatically equate prosperity with superiority. It’s part of what keeps the US from succeeding in building democracies in places like Iraq and Afghanistan, where the cultures are simply not structured for our Western-style governments.

I have been especially impressed with China and Vietnam, two of the last remaining “Communist” countries. People get scared off by the “Communist” label, but I assure you that their people are capitalist to the bone. I dare you to visit Vietnam and get aggressively pursued by people selling things and then tell me they are Communists. You don’t need a taxi ride? Okay, maybe they can help you find a barber, or get your shoes shined. Everybody has twenty jobs and works like crazy for an extra buck. Communist? Hardly. Class free societies? Not even close. Take a picture of the Hanoi man on his imported Harly, or visit the new area in Saigon that will make you think you got kidnapped and space-warped to a nice Dallas, Texas neighborhood. China and Vietnam are single-party governments, but to write them off as being “Communist” countries shows a simple understanding of the governments, and a complete lack of knowledge of the people. As one Vietnamese man told me, “The people are years ahead of the government. The government is racing to keep up with the financial freedom, trade, and innovation of the people.”

Singapore has the most efficient, streamlined, wealthy, modernized system of anyplace I’ve ever visited. What was once the garbage can of Malaysia made itself into greatness, in the course of one generation. It’s beyond amazing what they created, particularly considering the third world, impoverished nations surrounding them. Read this National Geographic article for a better understanding of how they did it (mainly under the guidance of one man).

I focus a lot on China because I see them as a global threat and as, inevitably, the next big (biggest?) superpower. Based on recent rhetoric, they are regressing to more government control, buying out private companies and cracking down on free speech. That said, I much admire the consistent, high growth of their economy, and the laserlike single party focus of their government to continue that growth. Say what you will about their piss poor civil rights record, and respect for individual rights, but don’t ignore China’s ability to rapidly shake and bake whatever needs shaking and baking in their power growth.

In the US, we are bogged down with two major parties, both of which are heavily influenced by special interest groups, and which regularly alternate power, and bicker incessantly. Yes, I’m complaining (what good citizen doesn’t?). Our country’s ability to seriously focus on real problems (the economy?) is highly limited by all the wedge issues.

All that said, I’d rather have our gridlocked representatives than oppression and threats from a single party government. At least as an American I have a voice to vote them all out next election.

AMERICANS HAVE IT GOOD.

Really good. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: we are the luckiest people on the planet to have been born in the USA. It’s a golden ticket to make of our lives whatever we want or to waste away. Even Noam Chomsky, the famous MIT professor who is a strong critic of our system, admits that the US is about as close as any country has ever come to being a class free society—that is, an average kid born into poverty or middle class can grow up to be a general, a CEO, or the President of the United States. Some have it easier, no doubt, but the doors are there waiting to be found and opened.

One quick example of the advantages we enjoy as Americans is our ability to travel freely. My toughest places to visit so far have been China and Vietnam. Both required me to get Visas prior to arrival. You know what I had to do? I had to mail my passport to the Chinese and Vietnamese offices in Washington, D.C. (or some other city), include a check, and wait. A week or two later I got my passport back, stamped with visas, ready to visit. Many Americans, by the way, think that process is “difficult.” As far as I know, Americans are welcome to visit every country in the world. The only ones we legally can’t visit are ones restricted by our own government (e.g. Cuba)! In other words, an American passport is a ticket to travel the world!

By comparison, most of the people I meet in SE Asia have no chance at ever visiting the US or other Western nations. For one, it’s just too expensive for them. While we’re complaining about our $20,000 jobs or $50,000 jobs, they are lucky to make $2,000 in a year. Sure they live at home and get by on hardly anything at all (they have to), but once they leave the region, how far do you think that income gets them?

Just to get a visa to visit the US on vacation is near impossible unless they can prove they have a lot of money in the bank (one Chinese person told me she must have $30,000 in her bank account, which is then locked up by the government until she returns), pass interviews, and show proof of job, etc.! I’ve spoken with several people who have been denied visas after meeting all the requirements.

HAPPINESS IS PERPLEXING

What is happiness? Is it momentary ecstasy or prolonged contentment? Can it be sustained indefinitely? Is happiness in memories or in dreams of the future? Is happiness being warm and dry, in clean clothes, on cool sheets, chatting with friends, making jokes with strangers, petting dogs, having hunger satisfied with met cravings? Does religion, marriage, or money correlate with happiness?

One of my goals since I quit my job last year and started traveling has been to learn more about people, to see what makes them tick, what makes them happy, and improve aspects of my own life.

Well, psychologists (and other professionals) have actually researched some of these things. As it turns out, except at extremely low levels of wealth (people who can’t afford shelter and clothes are nearly unanimously unhappy) there is very little correlation between money and happiness. With marriage and religion it gets trickier, but there is a lot of support to show that married and religious people are indeed marginally happier.

What about freedom? It might surprise you to learn that more freedom doesn’t necessarily mean more happiness. Every time I meet Russian girls being silly in hostels or Chinese people cracking jokes on the beach, I feel like shaking them violently and yelling “You are supposed to be unhappy and oppressed!” But they aren’t unhappy! Mongolians living in gers, eating the same foods everyday are not unhappy! People adapt to their conditions. If they are born into harsh conditions, there is little adapting required when moved into other harsh conditions.

I skimmed a book several months ago, The Paradox Of Choice, about this very idea of choice and happiness. It used an example of shopping for pants, and how the clothing store had literally dozens of types of jeans of different washes, different cuts and styles. It becomes overwhelming to have too many choices. Most of us would just as soon have someone throw a pair of jeans at us and then we could be on our way to a basketball game or something enjoyable. According to the book, research shows that having too much freedom and too many choices leads to inefficiency and lack of happiness. Who would have thought?

A married man who goes to steady work all day, comes home and eats with the family, watches sports with his friends on Saturdays, and goes to church on Sundays is in a strict routine. His choices are gone. There is no stress in worrying about finding a woman to build a family with, no worries about what to do on the weekend, etc. He just has to keep doing what he’s doing, which gives him the mind space, if you will, to truly enjoy those things.

As a more relevant example of how too many choices leads to unhappiness, I’ve read a couple articles (maybe they referenced the same study(ies)) about women. Despite the massive gains made by the feminist movement, despite the overwhelmingly open educational and occupational opportunities available to American women now, they are unhappier now than in decades past. Men, on the other hand, have shown fairly steady happiness levels over time. Why? Could it be that in the ambitiousness of “having it all”—a high salaried, highly respected job, high education, lots of friends, great social life, finding the perfect Mr. Right, having a full house of kids, living in a big, beautiful house, driving a stylish car, dressing well—that some of those things are forced, or impossible to have without losing out on some of another? Maybe it’s time for people to reevaluate what “having it all” means, or should mean…

Some of the key components of living I’ve learned, that increase the odds of endured happiness are keeping negative stress levels as low as possible and always manageable, having healthy, strong, and long lasting relationships, and taking care of the body through a good diet and exercise regime. Easy, right? If your “having it all” doesn’t allow for these three big components to exist, then maybe your “having it all” isn’t a road to happiness? And isn’t that what “having it all” is really all about, happiness?

GOOD STRESS IS GOOD FOR THE BRAIN

I miss work. I feel like I need a job, a mission, some goal to shoot for, a team to work with, something to complain about! having some stress is important and necessary to keep the brain tip top.

When older folks stop working, their brains slow down. They get sick sooner, and die earlier. Because of this, I want to work forever, but I want to choose where I live and what I’m doing and be able to control my exertion better.

I’m going on 10 months without a job, and am as relaxed as I can be. Too relaxed. I have never in my life had this much time to do whatever I want to do. I want someone or something to limit my choices! Yes, I’m saying it’s time for me to get a job.

THE WORLD IS NOT ENOUGH

Let’s face it, the world can be split into two groups: the haves and the have nots. If you’re reading this, you are one of the haves. Happiness is an uphill better for us, the haves, in my opinion. What I mean, is that we have been so fortunate to have done so much and had so many opportunities. Whether or not we took advantage of them, we know we can have them, and being satisfied means obtaining at least that level.

I’m a bit of an adrenaline junkie. Though I think I live and conduct myself fairly conservatively, I enjoy being terrified and shocked occasionally. However, since I’ve had a good number of shocks, it takes something even more shocking or incredible to get my adrenaline going now. It’s very, very difficult for something to “Wow!” me. Maybe I’m a little jaded, but I think many, perhaps most of my generation in America, is the same.

This is the reason why I’m getting pickier and pickier about where I travel now. I’m not so sure I want to see every country anymore. I want to see only the most incredible places, and do only the things that I think will be unforgettable. After seeing Angkor, I really have little desire to see the temples anywhere else in SE Asia. They simply won’t impress me.

TRAVELING MAKES THE WORLD BETTER

If everyone were required and able to travel the world for a year, especially to those areas most unlike our homes, and to really attempt to understand other cultures, our world would be better and more peaceful.

The most understanding, compassionate, and tolerant people I’ve met, in the US and overseas, have tended to be the most well read and well traveled. I can’t say I’ve ever met a serious traveler with righteous, intolerant views. Is it the traveling and reading that makes people this way, or is there a certain type of people who flock to travel and higher education? Maybe both.

REFLECTION

So what have I learned this past year of unemployed traveling? That I’ve changed. I know I have changed. I feel like more than I was. I feel smarter, but question more of what I was taught in formal education. I’m unconvinced there is a “right” political system, or a “right” way of living, or a “right” religion. I know I have changed. I think I already had a healthy respect and appreciation for other cultures. That has only grown. With the growing respect, however, has grown a frustration of the inefficiencies in the world, mistakes that should have been corrected, processes that should have been improved, etc. I have to remind myself of those college anthropology lessons to mitigate my desires to “fix” the world. I know I want to work again. I know I have a big list of adventures I want to do. I know I want a big family. I know I want it all, but that it’s nearly impossible to have it all AND be happy at the same time. Less is more—that much I knew when I started.

In few other places in SE Asia have I encountered so many people trying to con unsuspecting tourists. Balinese are very friendly and a pleasure to talk to, right up until they launch into a sales pitch. Unfortunately, the majority I’ve encountered have pitches. My beef is when I feel lured into what seems like an innocent conversation, building rapport with a Balinese person, then get blindsided with her pleas to buy a shoddy product. It’s barely a step up from flat out begging. Obviously many tourists are guilted into paying, otherwise these scams and “products” wouldn’t exist.

Perhaps economists have a formal term for this, what I’ll call a false market, wherein certain products continue being pushed by vendors (and bought by sellers) not because of the products’ inherent worth, but because of some guilt, feeling of obligation,  or even fear in the victim (the tourist) to pay money. Bali has been corrupted by tourism in this way. Tourists are to blame for continuing to fund these pathetic attempts at “making a living.”

Want examples? How about every night men offering to sell me marijuana, cocaine, ephedrine, Viagra, and other drugs. This, in a country which claims to have some of the world’s strictest drug laws and enforcement. How about girls every few feet offering manicures that leave nails in worse condition? How about prices that are marked up 1000% to try to scam the new unsuspecting tourists? How about internet businesses selling products for multiples of what can be found with a little groundwork? That’s enough of my rant on the Bali tourist problem. I’m disappointed, to say the least.

By avoiding eye contact, ignoring anyone selling anything, and learning to “just say no,” you can eliminate most of the frustration of Bali and focus your energy on the beauty of the beaches.

Bali’s beaches have some of the nicest, most consistently packed and smooth sand I’ve encountered. How nice it is to not worry about sharp rocks, coral, glass, and other harmful objects in the sand. Surfing and playing in the waves is safe and fun. I don’t remember having this much fun in the ocean since I was a kid.

Bali is unique in that most of the island’s residents are Hindu, even though Indonesia is a Muslim nation. Twice daily, little square religious offerings made of flowers and other plants are placed on sidewalks. A person can’t walk more than 10 steps without passing one. By the end of the day, most are destroyed from being stepped on and driven over. People clean up the waste and replace with fresh offerings. One particular town in Bali is known for another religious tradition.

Trunyan, a little Hindu village on a lake, sitting opposite an active volcano, places its recently deceased in bamboo “cages” under a tree. In other words, they are not cremated (like most Hindu), are not buried, but are left atop the ground until bones remain, which then get places alongside the other skeletons. All the bodies are placed under a tree, which Trunyans claim has a special scent, giving the entire cemetery a refreshing aroma, and eliminating any stench.

I drove several hours on motorcycle to reach the little village, only to be turned away because I didn’t have enough money to pay for the final few hundred meters to the cemetery, reachable only by boat. It’s too bad I didn’t reach my goal, but the whole thing started to offend me, when a local Trunyan kept talking about his religion and at the same time selling me his best pitch, trying to get me to pay $25-$35. I offered $5, which is really all I could offer and still have enough to get home.

My wallet had less than $10 when I left my hotel in the morning, enough for food and gas and a police bribe in case I were stopped. I was warned not to carry much money and to leave my ATM card at home because some police are crooked and will try to get as much as possible. I didn’t realize a trip to the cemetery could be so expensive, but luckily other things on Bali are not.

Through some luck and lots of work, I have found some true bargains here. Surfboard rentals are fairly expensive, costing over $10 for an hour or two, if rented on the beach. One shop advertises a weekly rental for $65. I was tempted to purchase a $150 board, then sell it back for about 30-40% of that (which is what some shops offer). Well, even better, I found a shop a little ways back from the beach that rents me the board of my choosing for $3/day! I can try out new boards, swap at mid-day, or whatever I want. When I’ve surfed, it has been for 4-5 hours per day, a few in the morning, then a couple right before sunset. Averaged out, that’s about $0.75/hour! Wow!

Motorcycle rentals range in price, but can be had for about $3/day if rented for a week or more. I really wanted to get a $2/day rental, but couldn’t get anyone to accept, so I pay $3/day. If riding motorbikes weren’t so dangerous here, I’d recommend it to everyone. There is no other way to see so much of the area at so little cost, with so much freedom. It simply can’t be done another way. Taxis, even if hired for a day, will cost a small fortune. Walking is great exercise, but good luck getting outside the city limits. I rode to a volcano two days ago, and will be going to another beautiful location tomorrow, stopping where I want, taking pictures where I want, eating where I want, etc. All one has to do is search the internet for some Bali tourist scams to see the advantages a motorcycle has over hiring locals.

Though the Balinese are very friendly and peaceful, the island has been chosen by Muslim terrorists as a target. With so many tourists from industrialized nations here, particularly Australians, it is very easy for extremists in nearby Java or neighboring countries to plan attacks. Talking with Balinese, it seems many Americans have been completely scared from visiting. It’s unfortunate that a couple highly choreographed bombings by non-Balinese, on specific, tourist-populated and symbolic locations, over the past decade, have scared off so many.

Bali really is an adventure and I can see why so many tourists visit. Bring sunscreen, avoid eye contact, and enjoy the beach and land!

Street food is cheap. Here, in Thailand, I eat two, maybe three times per day. Each meal costs $1-$1.50, or about $3-4/day. Not bad, right? If I had similar food in restaurants, I would be paying at least twice, and more accurately three or four times as much.

Street food is in the open. Some argue that restaurant food has a certain level of food preparation or health safety built-in that street vendors can’t provide. I think those people are wrong. If you’ve ever worked in a restaurant, you probably agree with me, that some shady things happen in restaurant kitchens. Street vendors put it all on display.

Street food is fun. There is a thrill in watching exotic foods prepared, especially by street vendors that have years and thousands of repetitions making the same dish. They get very, very good at what they do.

Street food provides an inexpensive opportunity to sample new foods. When a bowl of pork noodle soup costs the same as a Kit Kat bar, you’re foolish to pass on the chance to try it! If the taste is disgusting or it’s not what you expected, try another, knowing that the effort cost you very little.  

Street food can be personalized. My friends know me as a picky eater. I like simple textures and dishes. Too many vegetables and not enough meat always aggravates me. Well, when I order up some street food, I can tell the guy “spicy, no vegetables, lots of meat and garlic.” Then, as he prepares it, I can make on-the-spot inputs. Try doing that at the next restaurant you visit.

Street food vendors will remember repeat customers. Sure, restaurants have plenty of repeat customers and can be trained to know exactly what a person wants, but it takes many visits because of the large, revolving shifts of employees. Street food vendors are typically lone operators, pushing their carts and equipment home at night, then returning the next day. If I plan to stay in a city for a few days and especially enjoy a meal, I’ll tell the vendor “remember me, I return tomorrow, same same.” I return the next day and the person knows exactly what I want!

Last year, I “cheated” while traveling, eating Westernized food nearly every other day. I’d eat pizza quite often, and occasionally visit a Subway, Krispy Kreme, or other junk food restaurant when I felt a craving. This year, in the places I’e been, I’ve gotten into a groove because of good street food. I find the foods I really like, returning daily. My eating costs have definitely dropped significantly, my waistline is managed better, and I’m enjoying the local atmosphere better.

If you are afraid of try street food in a foreign country, please give it a chance!

Occasionally I am asked how I find things to do. Through travel experience, I have gotten better at this task, yet missing out on interesting activities and sights still regularly disappoints me. In any case, here are my favorite ways to find things to do:

1. Meet a local. No resource can prove as informative, helpful, and efficient as a local willing to show you around. See this post for one such experience I had in Vietnam.

2. Use a travel guide. I’ve been to countries like Mongolia and Japan, where I did not have a travel guide, and am glad I got that “raw” experience of having to figure things out for myself. That said, there is no source as readily available, as broad, and as informative as an established guide book. In SE Asia, I look for Lonely Planet books. In my opinion, no other label comes close to being as useful. In Europe, the Rick Steve’s series always proves helpful. I used to despise guide books as being for typical tourists, but let’s just say that I have been converted to their breadth and depth.

3. Ask locals. Next best to having a local show you around her city, is asking a street food vendor or convenience store clerk for his advice. If you’re interested in getting “off the beaten path,” say so! I like to ask locals to tell me something really odd or weird about their city or country. Some will be hesitant to share, not wanting to embarrass their country, but you’ll be surprised at some of the answers you’ll get if you ask enough people.

4. Use the internet. Similar to having a guide book, the internet is packed with useful information, especially for travel specialists. If you are interested in an elephant jungle trek, use Google to find out the best ways to do it, the costs involved, and reviews by customers. One of my favorite websites is tripadvisor.com because of the extensive user reviews and user-ranked lists of “stuff to do.”

5. Use old school strategies to increase your knowledge of a place. This includes watching documentaries, browsing through books at the bookstore or library, reading magazine articles, asking friends that have been there, etc.

Hopefully this gives you a new idea or two. How do you figure out what to do when you travel?